Backpacking Big Sur's Salmon Creek & Buckeye Trail Loop: The Perfect Weekend Wilderness Escape

Quick Stats

Distance: ~20 Miles Loop

Duration: 2 Days / 1 Night

Trailhead: HERE 

Difficulty: Moderate to Hard

Elevation Gain: ~4,500+ Feet

Trail Type: Loop

Permit Required: None

Parking Permit Required: None

Camping Permit Required: None

Dog Friendly: Yes

Best Seasons: Spring, Fall, and Winter

Water Availability: Seasonal creeks (filter required)

If you're anything like us, you're constantly searching for the perfect weekend backpacking trip. Not a week-long expedition that requires months of planning, a permit lottery that needs to be won six months in advance, or a crowded campground packed with people. We love finding trips where we can leave after work on Friday, spend a night or two deep in the wilderness, and return home feeling completely recharged. That's exactly what we found in Big Sur.

The Salmon Creek Trail and Buckeye Trail Loop might be one of California's most underrated backpacking trips. It offers incredible coastal views, rugged mountain terrain, remote campsites, spectacular sunsets, and one of the most memorable sunrises I've ever experienced. The best part is how simple it is. There are no permits to obtain, no campground reservations to fight for, no parking passes to purchase, and no complicated logistics. You simply show up and hike.

The Drive to Big Sur

One of the things that makes this trip so special is that the adventure starts long before you ever step onto the trail. We left San Diego after work on Friday and headed north, knowing we wouldn't have enough daylight to start backpacking that evening. Instead of rushing, we decided to spend the night in San Luis Obispo. It turned out to be the perfect decision because we were able to get a good night's sleep and wake up early Saturday morning ready to hit the trail.

The drive from San Luis Obispo into Big Sur is an experience in itself. Highway 1 constantly reminds you why it's considered one of the most beautiful roads in the world. Massive cliffs drop into the Pacific Ocean, rolling green mountains rise above the coastline, and every turn reveals another view that seems too perfect to be real. Honestly, if you've never driven Highway 1 through Big Sur, it's worth making the trip just for that experience alone.

Arriving at the Trailhead

One thing that immediately stood out was how simple everything was. After years of dealing with permit systems, reservation lotteries, and parking restrictions throughout California, it felt refreshing to arrive somewhere that required absolutely none of that. There was no ranger station, no permit office, no kiosk, and no crowded parking lot.

Instead, you simply pull off Highway 1 into a small dirt turnout near the Los Padres National Forest sign. That's it. We parked the car, grabbed our packs, gave Charlie a final drink of water, and started hiking. Within minutes, the sounds of civilization disappeared behind us and it felt like we had entered an entirely different world.

Day 1: Salmon Creek Trail to Lion Den Camp

Distance: Approximately 10 Miles

Elevation Gain: Significant

Camp: Lion Den Camp

The trail wastes absolutely no time. From the moment you leave the trailhead, you're climbing. The first mile is a steady uphill effort, but before long you're rewarded with some of the most spectacular coastal scenery I've ever seen. Big Sur starts showing off almost immediately.

As we gained elevation, the views continued to improve. Looking back toward the ocean, we could see endless stretches of rugged coastline with waves crashing far below. It quickly became apparent that this wasn't going to be an ordinary backpacking trip.

The Coastal Views

For nearly forty percent of this hike, you're traveling high above the Pacific Ocean. Not just slightly above it, but hundreds and sometimes thousands of feet above the water. The views are honestly almost distracting. The ocean glows a deep blue against the dramatic cliffs, and the contrast between the mountains and the coastline is incredible.

More than once I caught myself staring at the ocean while walking. Every turn seemed to reveal another jaw-dropping viewpoint, and every ridgeline somehow managed to outdo the one before it. This is one of those hikes where you'll stop constantly for photos, only to realize later that none of them truly capture what it looked like in person.

Hiking with Charlie

One of the best parts of this trip was being able to bring Charlie along. Finding truly great backpacking routes that are dog-friendly can be surprisingly difficult in California, but this trail was perfect. Charlie absolutely loved every minute of it. Every new ridge brought new smells, every meadow became a playground, and unlike many of California's more popular backpacking destinations, there weren't crowds of people around every corner.

Having him with us made the experience even more memorable. Watching him run through the open meadows and stop at viewpoints alongside us added another layer of enjoyment to the trip.

Climbing into the Wilderness

Eventually the coastline begins to fade behind you as the trail turns inland and climbs deeper into the Santa Lucia Mountains. This section feels completely different from the coastal portions of the hike. The scenery transitions into rolling hills, oak woodlands, grassy meadows, and remote wilderness that feels untouched.

Along the way we passed several primitive campsites and open meadows that would make excellent lunch stops. The farther we hiked, the fewer people we saw. By the afternoon it felt like we had the entire mountain range to ourselves, which is exactly what we're looking for when we plan a backpacking trip.

Lion Den Camp: The Most Unique Campsite I've Ever Seen

About ten miles into the hike, we finally reached Lion Den Camp, and honestly, it might be one of the coolest backpacking campsites I've ever visited. This isn't a campground in the traditional sense. There are no reservations, no numbered campsites, no campground host, and no bathrooms. It's simply a small clearing tucked into the wilderness with a picnic table, a fire ring, and a few places to pitch a tent.

What makes Lion Den Camp so special is its location. The campsite sits high on a ridgeline where two valleys converge toward the Pacific Ocean. Standing there feels like you're sitting on top of the world. Directly in front of camp is the ocean, behind you are endless rolling mountains, and below you is untouched wilderness stretching toward the coastline.

As evening approached, the landscape transformed. The ocean reflected shades of gold, the mountains glowed orange, and the shadows slowly stretched across the valleys. We watched the sun gradually disappear into the Pacific, and it was one of those sunsets that instantly reminds you why backpacking is worth every mile of effort.

A Night in the Wilderness

After dinner, we settled into camp and watched the stars emerge. The lack of light pollution was incredible. Thousands of stars filled the sky, and the only sounds were the wind moving through the hills and the distant crash of waves somewhere far below.

One of my favorite things about backpacking is how quickly everyday stress disappears. There were no notifications, no traffic, no deadlines, and no distractions. Just nature. Sitting there ten miles from the nearest road, it felt like the noise of normal life had completely vanished. We slept incredibly well that night.

Day 2: Sunrise Above the Clouds

The next morning delivered one of the most memorable moments of the entire trip. We woke before sunrise, made coffee, and stepped outside the tent to find the coastline completely buried beneath a blanket of clouds. The marine layer had rolled in overnight, creating what looked like an endless ocean of white stretching toward the horizon.

The only things breaking through the clouds were mountain peaks and ridgelines, making them look like islands floating above the sea. As the sun began to rise, the clouds lit up with shades of pink and orange while the mountains turned gold. The Pacific shimmered in the distance, and the entire scene looked surreal. I've seen a lot of sunrises while backpacking, but this might have been the most beautiful one I've ever experienced.

The Buckeye Trail Descent

After breakfast, we packed up camp and continued along the loop. About a mile beyond Lion Den Camp, the trail intersects with what appears to be an old road system. It looks like the area is accessible by high-clearance vehicles and off-road enthusiasts, and there are numerous dispersed camping opportunities for people who want to camp in the area without backpacking.

For us, the journey continued downhill. As we descended, the views somehow became even more impressive. The marine layer remained draped across the coastline while mountain peaks rose above the clouds. At times it looked more like something you'd expect to see in New Zealand than California. Every turn felt surreal, and we found ourselves stopping repeatedly just to take in the scenery.

The descent is long, but it's so beautiful that the miles seem to disappear beneath your feet. Before we knew it, we were approaching the coast once again.

Returning to the Trailhead

After roughly twenty miles total, we finally arrived back at the trailhead and found our car exactly where we had left it. No permits. No fees. No issues. Just an incredible backpacking trip and memories we'll be talking about for years.

Charlie immediately collapsed into the back seat, completely exhausted from the adventure. We kicked off our boots, loaded our gear, and started the drive home. Before we were even out of Big Sur, we were already talking about when we'd come back. That's usually the sign of a truly great trail.

Packing & Planning Tips

Water

Carry at least 2–3 liters and bring a water filter. Water availability varies depending on the season, so always verify recent conditions before your trip.

Weather

Big Sur weather can change quickly. Even during warmer months, bring layers for cool evenings and mornings.

Dogs

This trail is fantastic for dogs, but make sure they're comfortable with long mileage, elevation gain, and potentially warm temperatures.

Navigation

Download offline maps before arriving. Cell service is extremely limited throughout much of the route.

Campsites

Lion Den Camp is the most iconic overnight destination on the loop, but there are several other primitive campsites scattered throughout the area.

Final Thoughts

The Salmon Creek and Buckeye Trail Loop captures everything that makes backpacking special. It combines incredible ocean views, rugged mountain scenery, remote campsites, spectacular sunsets, unforgettable sunrises, and enough solitude to truly disconnect from everyday life.

In an era where many of California's most popular backpacking destinations require permits, reservations, lotteries, and months of planning, this trail feels refreshingly simple. You simply park your car, shoulder your pack, and start walking.

If you're looking for the perfect weekend backpacking trip in California, this one deserves a spot at the very top of your list.