There’s something about the Eastern Sierra that lingers in your heart long after you return to your daily routine. Last weekend, we set out to hike Kearsarge Pass, and I’m here to give you a detailed play-by-play guide—because this trip is one you’ll want to experience yourself.

We started by leaving San Diego on a Friday afternoon. It’s about a seven-hour drive, so we knew we’d arrive in the evening. The road trip itself is part of the adventure, especially once you hit Highway 395. Picture vast desert expanses giving way to towering peaks of the Sierra Nevada. After a quick stop for gas in the quaint town of Lone Pine, we turned west at Independence. The road to the Onion Valley/Kearsarge Pass trailhead winds upward for about 20 minutes—and it’s breathtaking. As you climb, the Eastern Sierra granite giants rise around you, and each curve of the road reveals a new angle of this rugged paradise.

We reached the trailhead at about 7 p.m. The sun was dipping behind the peaks, so we decided not to hike in the dark. Now, here’s a pro tip: Kearsarge Pass Trailhead has a huge parking lot, and you can camp right there if you’re in a vehicle. There is a nearby campground, but we simply parked and slept in our van. No reservations, no hassle—just the quiet of the mountains. There were bathrooms, fresh water, and even a creek, so we had everything we needed. Falling asleep surrounded by stars and the silhouette of the peaks was the perfect way to begin our journey.

The next morning, we were up at 5 a.m. There’s something special about that crisp alpine air as you brew coffee and prepare for the trail. After Charlie, our dog, had his water, we laced up and hit the trail around 6 a.m.

The first section of trail is a steady climb through pine forests, with stunning views unfolding almost immediately. The trail starts around 9,200 feet, so you’ll feel that elevation right away—just take it steady. About a mile in, you reach Little Pothole Lake. Here’s where the trail begins to show off its magic. The lake, encased in granite, looked untouched. As if that wasn’t enough, we spotted a black bear from a safe distance. It was a huge bear—perhaps 300 or 400 pounds—just getting a drink. It spotted us, took one look, and wandered off—wildlife at its finest, reminding us that we’re guests here.

Next up, about two miles in, we reached Gilbert Lake. This lake is a perfect spot to catch your breath or even camp if you’re starting late. It’s a tranquil basin with the granite cliffs reflecting in the water. We saw other backpackers waking up, packing their gear, and heading up the trail. If you’re ever late to the trailhead, this would be the perfect lake to camp by—just three miles from the start, but it’s alpine paradise.

From Gilbert, the trail gets steeper. Another couple of miles, and we hit Big Pothole Lake. This one still had ice floating on top—a breathtaking reminder that you’re up high. The granite walls formed a natural amphitheater around the lake. By now, we were about 5 miles in—and there it was: Kearsarge Pass at 11,760 feet. At the pass, you’re greeted by the boundary of Kings Canyon and Sequoia National Parks. The panorama is jaw-dropping—endless peaks and valleys stretching out in every direction. You feel small in the best way possible.

But the adventure didn’t stop there. We descended about a mile on the other side to Kearsarge Lakes—our campsite for the night. It was around noon. The lakes were half-frozen, nestled beneath dramatic peaks. The afternoon was pure bliss: eating, resting, soaking in the scenery. The way the sun hits the granite is otherworldly—golden light on icy peaks. It’s the kind of place that makes you forget the outside world exists.

That night, we watched the alpenglow and turned in early. The next morning, we woke to a dusting of snow—yes, in late May!  That’s the thing about the Sierra—you can experience all four seasons in a single weekend. The peaks glowed pink and orange as the first light hit them, and the lakes were perfectly still. There wasn't a breath of wind. It felt like we had the entire mountain range to ourselves. Charlie was already awake, exploring the shoreline and sniffing around camp while we fired up the stove and made coffee.