Hiking Half Dome: A Detailed Guide Based on My Two-Day Experience

Hiking Half Dome: A Detailed Guide Based on My Two-Day Experience

Quick Stats

  • Trail Type: Out & back
  • Distance: 16.5 miles roundtrip
  • Elevation Gain: 5,305 feet
  • Time Required: 10–12 hours
  • Permit Required: Yes (for the cables section)

Half Dome is one of Yosemite National Park’s most demanding—and iconic—hikes. It involves a steep, long ascent with significant elevation gain, capped by a final 400-foot climb up cables bolted into sheer granite. If you’re planning this hike, preparation and good planning are critical. Here’s how we tackled it over two days, what I learned, and what I would do the same or differently next time.

Day 1: Arrival and Acclimation

We arrived at Curry Village mid-morning and were able to find parking fairly easily. We reserved a yurt in Curry Village, which is about a 5-minute walk from the Mist Trail trailhead—an ideal base for an early start the next day.

Book Curry Village tents and yurts here: Curry Village Lodging – Travel Yosemite

After settling in, we opted for a warm-up hike to Vernal Fall via the Mist Trail, but kept things relatively easy to conserve energy. From Curry Village to the top of Vernal Fall is about 1.3 miles one-way with over 1,000 feet of elevation gain. The trail is paved at the beginning but becomes steep granite steps as you approach the waterfall. The mist from the falls keeps the rock wet and slippery, so tread carefully.

At the top, you'll reach Emerald Pool, a flat area above the falls where many people cool off. Swimming isn’t technically permitted, but you'll see plenty of hikers getting into the water to relax. We stayed here for a bit, took in the scenery, and then descended the way we came.

After dinner at the Curry Village Lodge, we packed our gear, prepped food and water, and tried to get to sleep by 7 PM. The goal was to start before sunrise to beat the heat and avoid crowds.

Day 2: The Ascent to Half Dome

3:30 AM Start

We woke up at 3 AM, had a light breakfast and coffee, and were on the trail by 3:30 AM. We took the Mist Trail route up. At that hour, the air was cool and crisp, and we used headlamps for the first hour or so. By around 5 AM, natural light started to come in and headlamps became unnecessary.

The Mist Trail climbs steeply alongside Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall, with over 2,000 feet of elevation gain in the first 3 miles. These sections are physically demanding and not to be underestimated, especially in the dark. The footing can be slick and the steps are uneven.

After Nevada Fall, the trail flattens out for about a mile near Little Yosemite Valley Campground. This is the last reliable spot to use a restroom or refill water if you have a filtration system (from the Merced River). From there, the trail resumes climbing via long forested switchbacks until you reach Sub Dome, which marks the beginning of the most challenging part of the hike.

Sub Dome and the Cables

The Sub Dome is a steep staircase carved into the rock, and it often feels never-ending. It gains around 600 feet in less than half a mile. There’s little shade, and the stone gets hot later in the day—another reason why an early start is important.

After Sub Dome, you’ll reach the base of the Half Dome cables. These cables run about 400 vertical feet up the rock, at an angle of roughly 45–55 degrees. The route is fitted with metal poles and wooden planks every 10–20 feet that serve as footholds and resting points.

Gear Notes for the Cables:

  • Gloves: Absolutely essential. Your hands will be gripping the cables the entire time.
  • Footwear: Trail runners or hiking boots with solid traction.
  • Harness (optional): Some hikers use a climbing harness with carabiners and slings to clip into the cables. It adds security but can slow you down due to constant clipping/unclipping.

Ascending the cables is slow, crowded (especially after 9 AM), and physically intense. You’ll often share narrow space with people coming down. When you reach the summit, the top of Half Dome is surprisingly large—roughly 5 acres—and offers panoramic views of Yosemite Valley, the High Sierra, and even El Capitan in the distance.

Descent and Post-Hike Recovery

Coming down the cables can be more intimidating than going up. Foot placement is tricky and the granite is worn smooth in places. The descent requires focus and patience.

We chose to descend via the John Muir Trail (JMT) rather than going back down the Mist Trail. The JMT adds about 0.5 miles, but it’s far less steep and easier on the knees. On the way down, we stopped again near Nevada Fall to take a swim and rest before continuing.

Once we passed the Vernal Fall footbridge, we refilled water and followed signs back toward Curry Village. Total time on the trail: about 11 hours including breaks.

Where to Camp After the Hike

We wanted to decompress and enjoy one more night in Yosemite, so we booked a campground in Yosemite Valley. After such a physically demanding day, having a reserved spot to rest was crucial.

Valley Campgrounds Include:

Reserve More Yosemite campgrounds here: Yosemite Camping Reservations 

We stayed at Upper Pines, which is centrally located and has shuttle access, bear boxes, and nearby restrooms. After setting up camp, we had dinner at Curry Village and reflected on the hike with a quiet evening in the valley.

Permits & Planning

Half Dome Permits

To hike beyond Sub Dome and ascend the cables, a permit is required from late May through mid-October (weather permitting).

  • 60% of permits are available via a preseason lottery (apply 24 weeks in advance).
  • 40% of permits are available in a daily rolling lottery (apply 2–4 days ahead).
  • Apply here: Wilderness Permits
  • After confirmation, pay your fee within 48 hours. Permits must be picked up in person at a Permit Station.
  • Backpacking Option

If you want to break the hike into two days, consider applying for a wilderness permit with an itinerary that includes Little Yosemite Valley. You’ll need:

Final Takeaways

  • Start Early: 3–4 AM is ideal to avoid heat, crowds, and storms.
  • Know the Route: Mist Trail up, John Muir Trail down is a good combination.
  • Bring the Right Gear: Gloves for cables, water (3–4 liters), first aid, food, and layers.
  • Train and Plan: It’s a long, tough hike—prepare accordingly.
  • Camp Wisely: Lodging before and after the hike helps reduce fatigue and enhances the overall experience.

If you're looking for a truly memorable Yosemite adventure, Half Dome is hard to beat—both for its physical challenge and the unmatched views it offers at the summit.

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